Salmon, Richly Spiced (Mark Bittman)

Recipe: Salmon with Yogurt-Curry Sauce

1½ cups plain yogurt
1 small cucumber, peeled
Salt and pepper
10 cardamom pods, seeds removed and hulls discarded (see note)
1 3-inch cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon cloves
½ teaspoon nutmeg pieces (smack a whole nutmeg with a hammer)
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 tablespoons neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed, if necessary
4 6-ounce salmon fillets
Lime wedges.

1. If yogurt is very thin, put it in a cheesecloth-lined strainer over a bowl. Cut cucumber in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Chop flesh, sprinkle it with salt and put in a strainer over a bowl.

2. If making spice mix (see note), combine all spices in a skillet and toast over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Grind to a coarse powder in a spice mill.

3. Put a skillet over medium heat; if it is other than nonstick, add oil. Season fish with salt and pepper and add it to pan; raise heat to medium high. Combine cucumber with yogurt and one tablespoon of spice mix in a bowl; taste and adjust seasoning.

4. After salmon has cooked for 4 minutes, turn it and cook on other side another 2 to 5 minutes. Serve, browned side up, with sauce and lime on the side.

Yield: 4 servings.

Note: You may substitute one tablespoon of store-bought curry powder for the mix.